PANAMA SAN BLAS ISLANDS
S/V MANDALAY
June 21 – 28, 2003
by Meg Phillips (Tortolagrl)
June 21, 2003
We did have an early start, there were 27 of us on the 7:50 Copa Flight from MIA
to PTY. For those who have been concerned regarding the airline, it was the best
flight I have had. We even were given real silverware for breakfast, it was hot
and the attendants were very friendly and courteous. What a refreshing change
from what we have gotten used to in the U.S.
I arrived at MIA and in line to check in by 5:30 a.m. and found the check in
line winding around the lobby, not what I expected for so early in the morning.
And the security line wasn’t any better, by this time I had met two couples who
were also on the Mandalay so we just stuck together. They had us take off our
shoes to go through the security gate – and since it was so close to the time of
take off, I just boarded the plane barefoot.
Arrived at PTY, and as long as you did the paperwork on the plane when given to
you, Immigration and Customs was a breeze. Be prepared to walk a bit to find
Customs and Immigration, they aren’t located right at the door. After clearing,
walked a bit further and found our meet and greet person. She had a list of who
she was expecting, we had roll call and then off to the bus to take us to the
hotel.
We arrived at the hotel about 11:30 a.m., and proceeded to check in. My roommate
for the rest of the week was Fran, from Long Beach, CA….my home town….couldn’t
think of a better person to be with. She was exhausted from her flight
adventures, so she took a nap, I don’t blame her. The rest of us went to TGIF
for some lunch and to decide what we wanted to do for the rest of the afternoon.
As stated in Bill’s trip report, about 3 taxi’s of us went to the local craft
market to shop, and then Gil (who lived in Panama awhile, and spoke fluent
Spanish) suggested we do a tour of Old Town. Why not, so off we went. We visited
an old Spanish Catholic church which was being decorated for a wedding, we
walked down by the French Embassy along the seawall and had a great view of the
American Bridge and of the New Panama City. The old buildings are being restored
in this area, and are really beautiful, you can just imagine the way Old Town
used to look.
Back to the hotel and to TGIF’s for a drink and a discussion as to where to go
for dinner. We were told by the hotel that they would arrange for us to go to
the area where there were a lot of restaurants, however, they also warned us
that these restaurants are very popular on Sat. night and would require
reservations. Most of the group then decided to eat dinner at TGIF again. Gil
said he wanted to take a taxi to his old stomping grounds for dinner and asked
if anyone wanted to go, I figured he speaks fluent Spanish and lived here, so
why not. What a great decision, we ate at a local place and we were the only
English speaking people there. Gil ordered for us both and we decided on getting
a pitcher of Sangria. A great relaxing evening getting to know each other. He is
a teacher in Houston of Biology and Science, a surfer and a great adventurer.
After dinner, we took a short walk about the neighbourhood and then got a taxi
back to the hotel. We both had visions of swimming in the pool and hot tub – but
the pool was a bit too cool and the hot tub broken, so off to our rooms to get
ready for Sunday.
June 22, 2003
As Bill said in his report, there was a great breakfast included in our package
and it was just what I needed. We had a long day ahead of us. I had decided to
take the Jungle Boat Excursion. There were 14 of us on this trip, and we left
the hotel at 8:30 a.m. with our guide Cloudo. Cloudo was a great guide, very
informative of information about Panama, the Canal Zone and of the different
types of animals we would be seeing today.
The first stop on this trip was the Miraflores Locks on the Pacific Side. We
were able to climb to the observation station to watch two ships pass through
the locks. They have a system of usually doing all the eastbound ships in the
morning and the westbound ships in the afternoon, which proved interesting as we
would see these same ships later in the day from our little boat.
Then off on a drive through the countryside which is lush, green and wonderful.
As we passed different buildings, Cloudo told us the history of them, and what
they are being used for today. There were quite a few bases that we left behind
that the Panamanians are now using for schools and hospitals. We arrived at our
boat, and off we went.
We went out into the Gantun Lake and followed the course the ships would take.
In fact, we ended up see two of the ships we saw in the locks later that day.
This excursion was not only fun and informative, but a great way to see so many
animals that live there. We spotted White Face Monkeys, Spyder Monkeys, Sloths,
and even a Toucan. The hawks and other birds flying over just added to the
beauty of the day.
About 1 or 1:30 p.m. Cloudo took us to an island in the lake that had two
covered picnic tables and set up a lunch he had brought. Sandwiches, chips,
cookies, some great punch and the best fruit. It tasted so good, and while
eating we spotted another sloth hanging from a tree nearby. After eating and
everyone taking some last minute runs to behind the trees LOL we were on our way
back to the base.
We then had a great hour to hour & ½ trip to Portebello where we boarded the
Mandalay. We were the first group to arrive, so we all declared that the
swizzles belonged to us, and no one else. Matt & Brent were right there to greet
us as we came aboard with the swizzles ready to go. I have arrived home, and
that is how I felt as I boarded her.
Ace took me down the stairs to my cabin, #19, and my bag was waiting for me
there. I put my other stuff down and then went right back upstairs to enjoy the
view, the water and most of all, being on the deck once again.
The group that had taken the land tour arrived about 2 hours later – and then
the party started. Meeting everyone at the hotel had really broken the ice, we
had gotten to know each other a little, so the swizzle time started in full
swing instead of having to warm up.
We had dinner, and then we all settled in for a somewhat quiet evening due to
all of the activity of the day, and started to comparing notes of each tour.
June 23, 2003
Waking up to a glorious morning on deck, sun was out and it was warm. After the
very long cold winter, I was ready for warm. You could smell the fresh sticky
buns baking, just didn’t know how much I missed that smell until now.
After breakfast we had our first StoryTime with Capt. Matt. Today he made the
introductions to his staff on board, gave us some history of the Port of
Portebello and told a little of what the morning would hold in store for us, and
of course, the time of the last launch to the ship.
On either side of the bay there were remnants of the forts the Spanish used to
protect it during the hey day of its life. This port used to be a bustling port
where the Spanish used to send off their ships with great shipments for the home
country. We had a choice of things to do this morning. Louise was going to lead
a group to the fort at the top of the hill on the opposite shore from the town,
or we could go into town and explore the few shops and the museum they had, or
stay aboard and swim off the side of the ship. For those who smoke, this was a
very important stop for them, they needed to be sure they had their supply for
the week of cigs, for there would not be a place to buy any until we returned to
airport the following Saturday.
At noon, the last launch came in and lunch was served buffet style, and then
everyone settled in for what would be our first raising of the sails. Well, it
was supposed to be, however, a very strong wind came up and brought in some very
heavy rain, so the sail raising was postponed as we set out to our first island.
Capt. Matt sure looked like he drowned while at the wheel during this hour to
hour and half rain storm. This ship did roll and we had some interesting walks
to cabins, but everyone seemed to be holding up well and were very excited to
get started.
After the rain subsided, Matt held our Life Boat Drill up on top deck back by
the wheel house. He has a great way of presenting this and you certainly
understand the need for this drill while you are sitting on deck rolling from
side to side. After the drill, the sails were raised. The first sounding of
Amazing Grace, a sound that all of us old salts look forward to, the new sailors
didn’t understand the reason for us being so excited – after going through the
first raising of the sails, they now understood. It became something they looked
forward to each day.
This evening we were to have the Almost Newlywed Game after dinner, however, due
to the rolling seas we had quite a few people who retired early, instead they
had the Nautical Trivia Game. There were two teams in the dining room competing
for a bottle of champagne. I did not participate, it was funnier to watch these
two teams. If they didn’t know the answer the more creative the answer the
better and you may score a point if you could get the other team to laugh. Some
of the answers were great.
About midnight I looked around and discovered that I was about the only left on
deck, there were a few others, it was raining off and on, so I started off
sleeping in my cabin, and then moved on deck about 3 a.m. A great start to a
wonderful adventure.
June 24, 2003
We anchored off of Cayos Hollandeses, a deserted
island with palm and white sand, surrounded by a reef. In fact, we had to make a
wide detour to cut through the reef to get to the island.
At this point, it would be a good idea to remind people, the coconuts and palm
trees are off limits. We were told not to pick up any coconuts to bring back
with us. Each island is owned by a Kuna Indian the trees are their crop. The
Indians sell the coconuts to vendors from Argentina, Venezuela & Columbia for
use in several products that we use everyday. Therefore, if we were to walk off
with a coconut, that would be the same as taking fruit or vegetables from a
farmer’s field here in the U.S.
The mola trees have sprouted, the ladies are patiently waiting our trade. There
is lots of shade, but do be aware of where you sit, you may end up with a large
knot on your head from a falling coconut.
The water is warm and so clear, the sun is out and very, very warm and strong,
and the breeze just tops off the perfect day. Most of us floated on the floaties,
snorkelled along the reef which circled the island, or lay on the beach just
enjoying the chance to relax.
Capt. Matt also suggested that we could help clean up the islands, for the surf
brings the trash that is dumped at sea. A small bundle of trash bags were
brought to the beach with the beach bar, and several people started picking up
the trash. Believe me, it didn’t even take 5 minutes to fill a bag, and before
the afternoon was over, we had filled at least 6 bags. Even the Kuna’s were
appreciative of our efforts and lent a hand.
At 5 p.m. the last launch to the ship left the beach, and we all were getting
cleaned up and ready for the evening. This evening, the Not So Newlywed Game was
played, and a lot of information that was given up, well, it will stay on the
ship!!!
We stayed at anchor off of Cayos Hollandeses for the night, a quiet anchorage
with just a nice rocking to put you to sleep. The stars are out, and made a
great blanket to fall asleep under.
June 25, 2003
After a calm night, we were off for the Kuna Indian
Community on Nalunega. We anchored offshore and the launches were taken in to a
small dock right outside the school yard fence. The students met us as we came
ashore, and just on the other side of the school the women had hung up their
Molas for viewing. These were so colourful, and gave the island a different
flair. Each Kuna family was out for our visit and they all were smiling and
greeted us warmly.
There were so many Mola’s to see, so much of the Community to visit and the
decisions that had to be made were not easy. Several of us started by just
walking around the perimeter to get an idea of the village layout, and along the
way we had a chance to view many different designs, layers and sizes of Molas
that could be bought. The ladies had put the molas on shirts, t-shirts, oven
mitts and hats. I found two oven mitts that I could hang in my kitchen, a
t-shirt that would be perfect for tonight’s PPP party, and a hat that would
shade my nose.
They had arranged for the dancers to perform for us. The men all played a form
of a “reed” instrument while they danced. Being that I played the French Horn
while in the marching band, I instantly knew that this wasn’t easy to do. The
ladies and the men danced as the men played their instruments in various
patterns. It was while doing this that a photo op came about (not counting the
dancing), a little boy, about 2 yrs old was standing off to the side with a
small replica of the instrument trying to play and dance at the same time…his
pic was worth the $1.
After the dancers were through, I met up with Gil on my wanders through the
village and he had discovered where the pieces of material for the ladies skirts
could be bought, and the best secret of all…..we could buy Pepsi or Coke in
bottles and the formula used cane sugar like they used to be made. And they only
cost $.50 a bottle. Needless to say, we bought a couple of bottles, and had a
seat to watch another couple shop at the little shop across the aisle.
The time had come to leave the village, so we all headed out to the launches to
head out to the ship. Lunch was being served and we all had a great time
comparing our buys of the day. As we were having lunch, we headed to our
afternoon anchorage off of “Dog” Island.
Matt has us anchored and ready to go ashore no later than 1:30 p.m. Just off of
Dog Island was a freighter wreck that we could snorkel over. When I say just off
of the island, that is what I meant, as you could see the top of the ship poking
out of the water. The snorkeling was great here, lots of fish, some great coral
and the reef was teeming with life. Then, if you went to the other side of the
island, the reef on that side was also very good, a bit of a current due to its
proximity to the Caribbean Sea, but worth it.
The Mola trees had also appeared here, but in smaller numbers, and the island
chief had also shown, so a head tax of $1 each was paid by the ship. The Kuna’s
were concerned about us all gathering right under the trees, due to the coconuts
which did fall quite regularly.
Then, back to the ship, and getting ready for Sea Hunt and the PPP party. Both
of which were big hit. We had four teams with as many as 15 ppl down to only 4
ppl. The names and cheers of all 4 were funny and easy to learn. The Golden
Dildos took first place due to some inventiveness on items requested – and
again, these will stay aboard the ship so not to ruin or give away any items
that may be asked for. It is more fun, when everyone isn’t ready for the items.
After the Sea Hunt we all headed to our cabins to get into our outfits for the
evening, and there were many to be seen. From the Polynesia Princess, several
Pecker Heads, quite a few parrots, pirates of all types, the costumes were
great. This was followed by an evening of dancing with the crew – who were all
in costume as well. The dancing lasted to the wee hours and at that time, I
again, decided to sleep under the blanket of stars.
June 26, 2003
In the morning we sailed over to Cocos Banderios (or
as we called it – the Chocolate Pirates). This was a beautiful island with a
wonderful beach. The reef surrounding this island was also teeming with sea life
of all sorts, and the coral was again superb. This was a beach day to beat none.
Some of us decided to go to the beach in the morning while others decided to
swim off the ship. And then in the afternoon, we just switched. Floating off the
side of the ship was great, but you do have to be aware of currents as you will
be pulled away faster than you would imagine.
The day relaxing in the sun, towards the end of the week, just made all of us
realize that we really didn’t want to go home, nor were we ready to. I noticed
that the subject of packing, going home, flying – anything that had to do with
leaving the ship was avoided.
The last launch was at 5 o’clock, and after everyone was back on board, the crab
races were to begin. Now, in this race there would be a newcomer, as he was
found on the beach that very day. A little young, quite small, but no less the
racer. He was ready to go as it was shown when brought out of his container, he
raced across Stephanie’s hand.
As all crab races go, we had 3 heats with 3 crabs each. The bets were placed and
the racing began. If you have never attended a crab race, there is no way to
describe it, it is one of those things that you have to see to believe.
Laughter, yelling and encouragement was heard all over the islands, I am sure.
In the end, two people divided the betting pool as winners.
All in all, this was a wonderful day to add to the others. But, we still had
another island and another day. We stayed anchored off of Cocos Banderios until
after dinner, and then we headed out to Isle Vista Grande.
The swells were back, the rolling was back but this time, most passengers were
ready and able to deal with them. In fact, quite a few of us stayed on the top
deck until late that evening just looking at the stars overhead and comparing
notes of our day.
To be continued...
