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SeaScape Trip Report - Installment 5

Mike Lee and Mary-Louise Johnson

May/June 2002

Day 16/Lipsi, Greece – We’ve done some switching of passengers today.  Richard and Yoga Sharon from our boat, as well as Brad and Kiwi Sharon from Angelina, have decided to temporarily move to Anna Maria.  It is amazing how much it changes the dynamics on our boat.  Angelina gets stuck in two anchors and a line trying to pull out of Arki and provides a great deal of entertainment to the whole marina for about 20 minutes.  We’re heading to a couple of deserted rock formations today for snorkeling and lunch on the water.  We try to put up sails but the wind drops and we end up motoring part of the way.  This turns out to be a very good day – hot sun, clear water, good lunch – we’re tied up with Angelina for a lazy, peaceful afternoon before motoring on to Lipsi, a small island known for having more than 60 churches.  There is a huge new concrete pier here that we almost have to ourselves.  We tie up, then head ashore for ice cream and a walk around town.  Lipsi is very quaint with lots of whitewashed buildings with blue trim.  The town square has little tavernas that serve yummy snacks with Mythos beer.  We dine at the Calipso Restaurant and, while the food is so-so, our waiters look like Greek gods!!!  The owner, who is quite a character, has four handsome sons and recommends we head over to the local disco later for some action – they have a new disco ball!  I get the impression that everyone here is related and many speak excellent English.  There are a number of other tourists here who appear to be from various parts of the UK.  We stop next door at the Rock Bar for after-dinner drinks and part of the group heads on to the disco later but reported in the morning that there was very little action there.  I think we are just ahead of the “tourist season” in Greece, which is good if you like peace and quiet, but not so good if you’re looking for a lot of action.

Day 17/Leros, Greece – I wake up early to the noise of school children on the pier near our boat.  They’re heading out for a field trip to Patmos.  You can also hear a donkey braying and roosters crowing in the distance.  There is no wind and the sea is like glass so looks like we will have to motor again today.  A couple of us have a light breakfast at Calipso’s ice cream shop and we get into a conversation with a local fisherman who spent 25 years in the US painting bridges in Ohio.  His name is Yanis, he is extremely rugged looking but a very interesting man.  He speaks great English and shares a lot of local information with us.  We motor to Archangelos, a deserted island with only a small church on it.  Vassilis and Angelina have a final lunch tied up on the water and spend the afternoon snorkeling.  It is amazing how barren this sea is – totally fished out – very stark!  Ray and Diane have fixed up a big batch of soy tacos (much of our food has been vegetarian due to lack of reliable refrigeration), Vlad whips up some very potent baked apples and Charlie and Adrienne mix up a great batch of wine spritzers.  Another nice, relaxing afternoon – our last day at sea.  We pull into Lakki, Leros around 3:30 – SeaScape’s home port.  Anna Maria is already here and everyone is excited to see hot showers, flush toilets and internet cafes.  I start to organize my bag for tomorrow’s departure, clean up for dinner, and spend happy hour taking photos with boat mates.  Taxis arrive at the marina around 8 p.m. to take us to Paradiso, a lovely restaurant near the beach, for dinner.  The restaurant’s owner is a fabulous bouzouki player so we get lots of live music and dancing tonight.  Diane gives belly dancing lessons and the ouzo is flowing.  The younger half of our group is drinking “big” tonight and heads up the hill to another bar to continue the party while the rest of return to the boats around 1 a.m.  It’s hot and uncomfortable in our cabins tonight.  The late night partiers arrive back around 3 a.m.

Day 18/Athens, Greece – Today is a travel day and everyone is up and stirring early.  We’re all hoping to get in a final hot shower, but when the marina office finally opens there is only cold water available—brrrr! – I get cleaned up in a big hurry and am ready to leave nearly an hour before our airport cab arrives.  The past two weeks have passed very quickly, but I’m mentally ready for the next phase – on to Athens!  The Leros airport makes Grenada’s Port Saline look like a booming metropolis!  It is tiny with virtually no security and one small gate.  Our flight actually departs early (half the passengers are from SeaScape) and we land in Athens shortly after 11 a.m.  The Athens airport is sleek, modern and less than 2 years old.  It’s noon by the time we deplane, claim luggage, say more good-byes (Vlad/Brant are going to Rome) and catch a cab into town.  About 75% of the SeaScape group are also staying at least one night in Athens so we have all arranged to meet later this evening for a “last supper.”  Mike, Linda and I share a cab since we are staying at the same hotel, the Astor in downtown Athens.  The Astor is a very nice smaller property with lots of modern conveniences like air conditioning, TV, good toilets and a bathtub!  Mike and I are on the 8th floor with a small balcony and a fantastic view of the Acropolis.  Since we’ve sacrificed so many personal conveniences over the past two weeks, Mike and I reward ourselves with a leisurely lunch in the hotel’s rooftop restaurant and take an afternoon nap before venturing out into the streets of Athens by early evening.  We’re meeting our group at the Dionysos restaurant near the Acropolis, but are not actually sure where we are going.  Athens is huge and very busy, but we manage to eventually find our way on foot and get familiar with the neighborhood along the way.  Our hotel is in the Syntagma Square area, but many of the touristy shops/restaurants are just south of us in the Plaka.  The most popular spot near our hotel seems to be McDonald’s – it’s packed with young Greeks at all hours of the day and night.  Dionysos proves to be a good meeting spot.  It is open air, has great atmosphere, good food and service and is right next to the Acropolis which is beautifully lit up at night.  More good-byes are said and then Mike and I walk back to our hotel.  The evening is gorgeous – light, warm wind, no need for a sweater or jacket.  And the beautifully lit Acropolis can be seen from almost anywhere in the city.

 

Photos on Webshots:

Istanbul before boarding: http://community.webshots.com/album/40676351JlBcqZ

Week One from Turkey - Part 1: http://community.webshots.com/album/40678737PuYeqv

Week One from Turkey - Part 2: http://community.webshots.com/album/42007934xyvvvC

Week Two from Greece - Part 1: http://community.webshots.com/album/41924549DeSznv

Week Two from Greece - Part 2: http://community.webshots.com/album/42007991CCbeww

Athens After the Cruise: http://community.webshots.com/album/42009364CKxFbV

Follow the black cat home, baby!

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